Loading into four vans we headed into the country. Besides Richard, our driver, there were four of us. Like it or not we would be van mates for the next 12 days as we bounced around what are called roads sucking in a lifetime limit on dust. While the others fought for seats as close to the front as possible I was more than happy to get tossed around in the back. It gave me a chance to jump from side to side and snap pictures on-the-fly (over 5000) with the hope that if not perfection at least some would catch the essence of the landscape as it was in 2006.

Our first pit stop taught us that to get to any bathroom you have to claw your way past souvenir vendors. We were warned not to buy until we had a handle on what things were really worth. But, of course, it's hard to resist showing off our bargaining skills. ( Guess who always wins — since they are the professionals.)

We were soon again on our way. With lots of government red tape it was necessary for our driver to stop at the entrance to Mt. Kenya Conservation Area and fill out the forms for our four drivers but soon we were continuing our climb to the Serena Mountain Lodge.

Known as a treetop hotel 2195 m high on the flanks of Kenya’s highest mountain amidst an ancient rainforest, our balcony overlooked a water-hole where a steady procession of animals came to drink. We were told to make sure our windows and doors were locked when not in the room as monkeys love to go through one’s baggage.

Once settled we set off on a guided nature walk (with armed guards in case of animal attack) which culminated at the high point with cookies and Kenyan coffee that could be taken white (with milk) or brown (with brandy) — a nice touch.

With nightfall meat was put out and a whole new group was attracted to our viewing area.

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