Arriving at Ilulissat this morning we were treated to an unforgettable view of one of the Earth's most beautiful scenes. All around the ship was a fleet of icebergs
ranging in size from little growlers to floating cathedrals and jagged mountains. Many of us were riveted to the deck by the magnificent sight of these towering formations silently drifting seaward from their birth place in the Jakobshavn Ice Fjord.Because of the extreme depth of the water here it was not possible for the Orlova to drop anchor, so the captain carefully positioned us in a location clear of the icebergs. Then we lowered our Zodiacs
into the calm water and our cruises near the mouth of the Jacobshavn Ice Fjord began. We rode close - but not too close - to the towering bergs, their graceful surfaces luminous under the cloud-striped sky, delicate waterfalls tumbling from deep blue crevasses to the sea. It was a fabulous morning, a spectacle that none of us will ever forget.
Once everyone was back on board, the ship moved a short distance to an anchorage just outside Ilulissat harbour. After lunch, we rode past a trio of loitering icebergs into the crowded little harbour
at a steady three knots, and split up to take in the town and its surroundings. Some did so on their own, enjoying the brightly coloured Danish-style buildings and the well-stocked gift shops of the town centre. Meanwhile others followed Carl through town, past many chained and hungry sled dogs 
, beyond the cemetery 
and over marshy tundra to a rocky viewpoint overlooking
the mouth of the Ice Fjord. The broad fjord, choked with massive icebergs and ice debris that sparkled in odd shafts of sunlight, was both humbling and inspiring.Bidding farewell to Ilulissat we set out up the east coast of Disko Island, our Russian sailors carefully weaving a path between the abundant
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